Everything you need to know before your garden building arrives: what to put it on, how we measure, and what the jargon on our product pages means.
Choosing a base · How we measure · Roof types · Cladding and framing · Treatment and care
Choosing a base
Every garden building needs a firm, level base. It's the single most important thing for a building that lasts. On an uneven or soft base, the frame twists, doors and windows stop closing properly, water can get in, and the manufacturer's guarantee is usually void.
Don't put a building straight onto grass or soil. Grass holds moisture, the ground moves, and the floor will sink and rot from underneath.
Good options
- Concrete: the strongest and longest-lasting choice. Best for large buildings, workshops and log cabins. Around 75mm of concrete on 75mm of compacted hardcore is typical.
- Paving slabs: nearly as good as concrete and easier to lay. Bed them on a sand-and-cement mix and check every slab is level.
- Gravel with plastic base grids: quick, budget-friendly and drains well, so it's ideal for DIY and damp gardens. Lay the grids on a levelled, weed-proofed area and fill with gravel.
- Timber bearers or a timber frame: lift the floor off the ground and let air circulate underneath. Use pressure-treated timber, and sit it on gravel, slabs or concrete, never directly on grass.
Tips
- Make the base slightly bigger than the building's base size (shown in each product's specification). Around 30 to 40mm extra on each side is ideal.
- Check it's level in every direction with a long spirit level, and square by measuring both diagonals (they should match).
- Leave a gap of at least 60cm around the building, so you can reach every wall to treat it and the roof overhang doesn't touch walls or fences.
- Keep away from overhanging branches, and think about access, light and any power or water you might want later.
- For larger buildings, or if you're unsure, a local builder or landscaper can lay a base quickly and affordably.
On some of our buildings you can add a base when you order. Where that's offered, you'll see it as an option on the product page.
How we measure
Building sizes in product names, such as "8 x 6", are nominal sizes in feet, a handy way to compare. The exact measurements are always in the product's Specification tab, in millimetres.
- External size: the overall footprint of the walls. Some buildings also show the size including the roof overhang. Use the larger figure when checking it will fit your space.
- Base size: the size the building's floor needs. Build your base slightly larger than this.
- Internal size: the usable space inside.
- Gable: the end wall of a building with an apex (pitched) roof, the triangular end under the point of the roof.
- Eaves height: the height at the lowest edge of the roof.
- Ridge height: the height at the highest point of the roof. Check this if you're near a fence or boundary.
Roof shapes
- Apex: a pitched roof that peaks in the middle, giving the most headroom in the centre.
- Pent: a single sloping roof, higher at the front than the back. Great against a fence or wall.
- Reverse apex: an apex roof turned so the door is on the long side.
Planning: most garden buildings don't need planning permission, but height limits apply, especially near boundaries. If in doubt, check with your local council before you order.
Roof types
- Mineral felt: the standard covering on most sheds. Hard-wearing and easy to replace. Expect to re-felt every several years depending on exposure.
- EPDM rubber: a single sheet of heavy-duty synthetic rubber that covers the whole roof with no joins. It's far longer-lasting than felt, often lasting decades, and needs almost no maintenance. Offered as an upgrade on some buildings.
- Felt shingles: tile-effect felt strips that give a smart, roof-tile look. Available as an upgrade on some log cabins.
Cladding and framing
- Overlap: boards that overlap each other. A good-value, traditional finish.
- Shiplap: interlocking tongue-and-groove boards with a channel that sheds rain. Stronger and more weatherproof than overlap.
- Loglap: interlocking boards with a rounded profile, giving a log-cabin look and a more substantial wall.
- Log cabins (19mm, 28mm, 44mm): walls built from solid interlocking logs. The number is the log thickness. Thicker logs mean a sturdier, warmer building, and 44mm is the choice for year-round use.
- Framing: the internal timber frame that holds the panels rigid. Heavier framing makes a stronger building, which is ideal for workshops and storing heavy items.
- Modular: walls supplied as panels you can arrange during assembly, so you choose where the door and windows go.
Treatment and care
- Dip treated / basecoat: a protective coat applied at the factory to protect the timber in transit and for the first few months. Treat with a wood preservative soon after assembly, and every year after that.
- Pressure treated (tanalised): preservative forced deep into the timber under pressure for long-term protection against rot. Lower maintenance, though a waterproof finish still helps.
- Seal around windows, keep gutters and roofs clear of leaves, and don't let soil, plants or stored items rest against the walls.
- Most guarantees require annual treatment and a proper base, so it's worth keeping on top of both.
Still not sure? Contact us and we'll help you choose.